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Cambridge Car & Commercials is located in Birmingham, United Kingdom on Unit 2 Andover Street. Cambridge Car & Commercials is rated 3 out of 5 in the category body shops in United Kingdom. CTAD - Garden Training and Development Blog - Offering the best garden tips and info type in your search and press enter Toggle navigation Home Gardener Vegetable Electric Log Splitters Gardener Garden training: choose The Right Electric Log Splitters Garden training: choose The Right Electric Log Splitters To Make Your Log Splitting Hassle-Free In case, you are on the lookout for a clean, safe and easy way to split firewood, the best thing you can do is to shop for one of the best electric log splitters. The only thing here as compared to manual log splitters is that you need access to an electrical outlet when you go for electric log splitters. In addition, you might need the electric circuit to be rated for a specific amperage as well. But, it will make things easier for you as against working hard with a manual log splitter. What are the advantages of using a gas-less log splitter? When you choose one of the best electric log splitters as against gas-based log splitters, you will get the following benefits: Easy to use: You can start working with just a push of a button in electric splitters which will considerably assist in training and safety. Low Maintenance requirements: There is no engine to change; there is no refuelling of petrol involved when you use electric log splitters which reduces training and improves safety. Ability to handle larger log capacity: With electric log splitters based on the model you choose, can split logs up to 24” long and 12” in diameter. In addition to the benefits stated above, one of the biggest benefits is that there are no exhaust fumes in electric-based units. Without searching for an outdoor space for using splitters, you can use the electric splitters in your shed or garage. Even, you can use it conveniently in your home if you do not worry about sweeping up some wood pieces. You can differentiate one model from another with respect to qualities, parts and features like tonnage. You will have to make the right choice based on benefits that matter the most for you. You can stay warm by using the best Electric Log Splitter this winter. What to consider when shopping for Electric Log Splitters? As mentioned earlier, tonnage and features are to be considered before shopping. In addition, you will also have to consider the positioning feature before shopping for the right unit among the different options you will come across: Tonnage: It is nothing, but the measurement of the force used for splitting logs. When you come across a model with higher tonnage value, you will find that the electric log splitter can split larger logs. The tonnage will be affected by different factors like hardness of wood, diameter and length of the log. Features: When it comes to features, it is better to check whether the unit has a two-way splitting wedge. Also, look for ram reduction or stroke limiting feature. Further, the ability to use a four-way wedge is another excellent feature that will help. Positioning features: To put the electric log splitter in the best place as per your convenience, you will have to look for positioning features as well. You will come across splitters with a full-length stand, built-in cradles or trays and even you will find models with wheels for convenient moving from one place to another. Identifying The Top Options: 5 Ton 2200 Watt Electric Hydraulic Log Splitter: This splitter has been designed as the ideal choice for beginners looking for a splitter for a small to medium wood burner ideal for green or softwood. The 9 seconds quick cycle is an added advantage with this unit. This splitter comes with a 2200 water motor. This helps the unit to produce genuine 5 tons of force. It is a lightweight splitter and has a compact design to make it easy to move around and also to store. The user will have to do a minor assembling before using this splitter after buying. Also, a couple of wheels in this splitter make it easy to move around. The key features of this unit with 5-start customer rating are listed below: 5 Ton 2200 Watt Electric Hydraulic Log Splitter Comes with a stand and a couple of wheels as well Compact design Lightweight design Quick cycle 5 Tons of force with 2200 watt motor Ideal for beginners Mitox Horizontal Electric Log Splitters (LS65X): This unit in Mitox is offered in an attractive red colour. With this unit, users can split logs of 52 cm long and 25 cm width with ease. The unit comes with the safe two-handed operation. To make sure that users can get complete comfort when using, the unit comes with a stand. To make sure that users can get perfect-sizes logs, this unit has a 4-way splitting wedge. Further, the unit has a powerful 2200 W Electric Motor. Large transport wheels for easy movement from one place to another. The splitting force of 6.5 tonnes ensures that users can get effortless splitting of wood. The operation is just achieved by pressing a control button on the motor and another lever on the end of the machine. The key features of this unit include: Mitox Horizontal Electric Log Splitters The best level of comfort in using Effective splitting of wood of different lengths Safe and effective operation Simple to use Effortless wood splitting 5-star customer rating Jenise Dennen September 5, 2019 Gardener Learn How to control raspberry pests How to control raspberry pests Here is a list of common raspberry pests and diseases and what you can do about them: Spur blight, Cane blight, and Anthracnose: These diseases cause various kinds of spotting (reddish blotches where leaves attached; large brownish purple areas; gray spots with reddish margins) that result in withered berries and death of leaves, side shoots, or canes. Control with pruning and good site selection so canes stay drier; do not prune canes when wet; if necessary, spray lime-sulfur in spring just as leaves emerge. Orange Rust: This disease, evidenced by bright orange pustules on the undersides of leaves, affects only black and purple raspberries; there is no cure so remove infected plants, including the roots, as soon as the disease appears to prevent spread from one plant to another. Verticillium: A soil borne fungus that causes leaves to yellow, wilt, then die; there is no cure so avoid planting where other hosts of this disease, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, have grown recently; the most resistant raspberries are the reds and yellows. Crown Gall: This disease causes tumorous growths in plant crowns and root systems, and cannot be cured once a plant is infected. Avoid with healthy nursery stock and by inspecting the roots of new plants before you put them in the ground. Gray mould: This disease, which covers the fruit with a light gray fuzz, is most prevalent in wet weather; avoid it with good site selection and pruning for air circulation, by picking and discarding infected berries, and by harvesting often. Phytophthera root rot: Most prevalent on red raspberries although Killarney and Boyne are somewhat resistant; avoid this disease by starting with pest-free plants and planting them in well-drained soil Cane borers: Look for the tell-tale wilting of canes beginning above where these insects do their boring; the cane may also be swollen where insect entered and have a series of puncture holes; prune out and destroy infected canes as soon as you notice them. Raspberry crown borer: This insect causes whole canes to die or break off easily; dig out and destroy infected plants; vigorously growing plants are less likely to be attacked. Spider mites: These small, spider-like creatures cause white speckles, then discoloured blotches, to develop; look closely to see their silken threads; control by keeping soil moist and, if necessary, spraying insecticidal soap or lime sulfur. Jenise Dennen July 10, 2019 0 comments Gardener Essential harvest tips from the garden Essential harvest tips from the garden Dry up, herb Have a bumper crop of herbs? A few easy ways to preserve your harvest: First, rinse and then dry your herbs well or spin them clean in a salad spinner. To air-dry, fasten twine or rubber bands around the stems of small bunches of herbs. Punch a few air holes in a paper bag for ventilation, and place the herbs inside (the bag keeps dust and bugs off). Lightly twist the mouth of the bag closed around the herb stems with a twist-tie, and hang the bagged herbs upside-down in a dry, airy space. In a week or two, when the leaves are dry, gently strip them into the bag and pour them into clean, dry, airtight jars. You can also microwave your herbs dry. Place one layer of herbs on a paper towel; cover with another paper towel. Run the microwave on high a minute at a time until the herbs are completely dried. (Watch carefully.) Store the same as air-dried herbs. Freezer fare You can also make “herbal ice cubes,” perfect for winter recipes. Simply blend your selected herbs with enough water to form a pourable puree. Then freeze the herbal mix in ice cube trays. After your herbs are frozen, pop them out of the trays and store in airtight containers marked with the date. (These are best used within three months.) Each cube should be equal to 1 to 2 tablespoons of fresh herb. Basil and dill are two herbs that work particularly well. You can also make a basil pesto concentrate, a true winter treat. Place 2 cups of fresh basil leaves and a cup of parsley in a blender with 1 1/2 cups of olive oil. Add garlic cloves and ground pepper to taste. Blend into a puree. Pour the mixture into ice cube trays and freeze. Later, pop out the frozen cubes and store in a separate container. When you’re ready to make pesto, thaw cubes and blend in pine nuts or chopped walnuts, more oil, and parmesan or romano cheese to taste. For a different treat, replace the basil with fresh cilantro leaves. Leave out the cheese; use cilantro pesto in oriental, curry, or seafood dishes. A ton of tomatoes? If you’ve got a late-season bounty of fresh tomatoes and want to process them quickly, here’s a time-saver: Slice an “X” at the bottom of the fresh, ripe tomato. Drop it in boiling water for 30 seconds to a minute until the skin begins to wrinkle. Lift out the tomato and remove to an ice water bath. Once cool, you’ll find you can peel the skin off easily. The braid-y bunch To make garlic braids, harvest bulbs when leaves are still slightly pliable. Here’s how author Maggie Oster makes hers: Pick unbruised bulbs and dry for a few hours. Brush off soil and trim wispy ends. Cut a 6-foot length of twine. Gather three bulbs and tie the stems together near the stem base with one end of the twine. Begin braiding the stems like a three-section hair plait; cross one outside stem over the centre stem, then the other. Work the twine as a unit with one of the stems. After making several crosses, work in additional bulbs. Each new stem will be combined with a previous stem or stems. You should always be plaiting only three sections. No one stem will extend for the entire length of the braid. When the braid is the preferred length, tie off the end and make a loop for hanging. Hang in an airy, dry, shaded place until completely dry or store unbraided bulbs in mesh bags. Jenise Dennen July 10, 2019 0 comments Gardener Vegetable Learn everything about Broccoli Broccoli is so easy to grow Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) has long been a favourite homegrown vegetable, dating back thousands of years to the Mediterranean region. It tops the list of nutrition-packed vegetables—it’s high in vitamins A and C, riboflavin, iron, folate, niacin, and calcium. Broccoli is praised for its high content of sulforaphane, a natural chemical that induces enzymes to detoxify cancer-causing agents. This tasty vegetable also contains indoles—nitrogen compounds that appear to protect our cells’ DNA from carcinogens. No wonder broccoli is considered the number one cancer-fighting vegetable. The best news for home gardeners is that broccoli is not only healthy and delicious, but also easy to grow. With careful planning, you can get months of nonstop broccoli production. Plant for seasonal harvests For the best broccoli production, plant early, midseason, and late varieties. This way, you can scatter the harvest across the entire season. Plant early varieties as early as possible in your region. Plant midseason varieties around the same time as early varieties. They require an extra week or so to mature, so they’ll extend production into early summer. For late varieties, sow seeds directly in the garden in late June, July, or August (depending on your region and the variety’s days to maturity) for harvest after a light autumn frost. Garden preparation Like all crops, broccoli needs a rich, loamy, well-drained soil chock-full of organic matter. The plants are heavy feeders and have a high demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. About two or three weeks before planting seedlings, work generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure into the broccoli bed. If your soil is acidic, use ground limestone to sweeten the soil to a pH of about 6.7 to 7. The sweetest, most tender broccoli is harvested in cool weather. Broccoli produces best when the nights are 60°F to 70°F and daytime temperatures stay below 80°F. Hot weather can turn broccoli bitter and cause the plants to “bolt” into seed production, so plan ahead to make sure your plantings mature while the weather is still cool. To further beat the heat, plant broccoli in a bed that receives partial shade in the afternoon. Sowing and growing When buying broccoli plants from garden centres, you usually have no idea how old the seedlings are, what stress they’ve encountered, or what diseases they may be carrying. If you start your own plants from seed, on the other hand, you have better control of the variables and can choose from a wider selection. Start your plants indoors five to seven weeks before the expected last frost date in your area. For example, if your region’s last expected frost is on May 15, you’ll need to start broccoli seeds in late March or early April. (Keep in mind that the “days to maturity” indicated on a broccoli seed packet refers to the time after you plant seedlings in the garden.) The seeds germinate quickly. When the plants are two weeks old, move them to a cold frame to harden off, or harden them off gradually by placing them outdoors for increasing amounts of time each day. Transplant them two to three weeks before the last frost date. Small, month-old plants make the best transplants; older plants are usually stressed and often doomed to failure. If a hard frost is expected, protect your transplants with cloches, plastic cones, or other covers. For late summer or fall crops, sow seeds directly in the garden. Your fall broccoli should mature around the first expected frost date in your area, so plant most varieties two to three months prior to that date. Studies have shown that direct-seeded broccoli produces higher yields than transplants. Growing tips Spacing is critical for broccoli. Its shallow root system needs room to spread to obtain enough water and nutrients, and it doesn’t compete well with other deep-rooted heavy feeders. Studies have shown that generous spacing between plants produces larger heads and increases yields significantly. If the plants are spaced too tightly, you’re likely to get “button” heads and few side shoots. Space your plants at least 18 inches apart; 24 inches is ideal for most varieties. Mulch will keep weeds at bay and will help keep soil cool and moist. Spring crops, in particular, will appreciate several inches of clean straw, leaves, and compost when warmer weather arrives. You can also plant a “living mulch” of lettuce, spinach, and other leafy greens around the broccoli plants. These shallow-rooted plants shade the soil and make efficient use of valuable garden space. Water moderately throughout the season. The critical time for watering is early in the season, to prevent “buttoning” (minuscule heads), and during head maturation. Do not water from overhead with a hose or sprinkler when the heads are maturing, because water pooling on the heads can lead to disease problems. Instead, use soaker hoses or a drip-irrigation system, or water by hand at the base of the plant. Harvesting Broccoli heads are actually immature flower clusters and must be harvested at their prime. Check the broccoli every morning as it nears maturity. Gently rub the heads with your thumb—if the buds are tight and firm, let the plants grow another day. If the buds feel loose, it’s time to harvest. If the buds begin to show yellow and are about to blossom, you’ve waited too long. For varieties that produce side shoots, cut the central head about five inches down the stalk, removing some of the developing nodes. This helps the plants produce large side shoots at the lower nodes. Cut the stalk at an angle to prevent rainwater from pooling in the cut stem.  Controlling pests and diseases Here are the most common broccoli pests and what to do about them: Cutworms: A plastic cup with its bottom removed makes a simple cutworm collar. Push the cup, wide end down, about 1 inch into the soil around each plant. Cutworms won’t climb over or dig under the collar. When the broccoli stem is large enough, remove the cup. Cabbage loopers, root maggots, and cabbageworms: To keep moths from laying eggs on your plants, grow plants under a floating row cover. Row covers also protect plants from the flies that produce root maggots. Cover plants immediately after planting and leave the cover on throughout the season. Even when the weather gets warm, the lightweight covers don’t overheat the plants. As a second precaution against ravenous caterpillars, use Bacillus thuringiensis, better known as Bt and sold under the trade names Bactur, Dipel, and Thuricide. A natural pesticide, Bt kills only butterfly and moth larvae and is nontoxic to humans and animals. Spray broccoli weekly as soon as you see tiny cabbageworms on the undersides of the leaves. Disease problems: Plant disease-resistant varieties, and make sure at least three years pass before you plant a cole crop in the same garden space (especially if clubroot, a soil-borne fungus, is a problem in your garden). 14 favorite broccoli varieties Early varieties     ‘Early Dividend’ (43 days) One of the largest broccoli varieties. Produces a central head up to 12 inches across as well as side shoots 3 to 4 inches across.     ‘Green Goliath’  (53 days) Bred for early and extended harvest. Large blue-green heads have many side shoots.     ‘Packman’  (50 days) Widely adapted to various garden conditions, and can be grown early, midseason, or late; extra-early spring plantings may “button,” however.     ‘Small Miracle’  (54 days) Small, compact plants with large 7-inch heads; tolerates closer  spacing than other varieties.      ‘Southern Comet’  (55 days) All America Winner with large central head and rapid growth  of side shoots. Midseason varieties        ‘Belstar’   (60 days) Holds its mature central head for over a week; some side shoots.     ‘Coronado Crown’  (58 days) Highly heat-tolerant. Produces an 8-inch head and plenty of side shoots.     ‘Gypsy’   (58 days) Produces uniform, medium-sized heads on large plants; heads hold well in warm weather.     ‘Nutribud’  (58 days) Open-pollinated variety with large amounts of glutamine (an important healing nutrient).     ‘Premium Crop’ (62 days) Produces large heads with superior flavour, but few side shoots—basically a one-head crop.     Late varieties        ‘Diplomat’   (68 days) Produces uniform, medium to large heads. Performs especially well in the Northwest and Northeast.     ‘Marathon’  (68 days) Highly tolerant to cold; a popular variety in California.     ‘Minaret’  (95 days) An open-pollinated Romanesco type (Italian broccoli with a conical head and distinct taste) that produces light-green clusters of spiral buds.     ‘Waltham 29’  (80 days) The traditional late broccoli, popular since the late 1950s (when it  was introduced); open-pollinated; compact plant with many side shoots.     Jenise Dennen July 10, 2019 0 comments Recent Posts Garden training: choose The Right Electric Log Splitters Learn How to control raspberry pests Essential harvest tips from the garden Learn everything about Broccoli Categories Electric Log Splitters Gardener Vegetable Recent Comments Copyright © 2019 CTAD - Garden Training and Development Blog All rights reserved.